GROW YOUR OWN-SAVE THE ENVIROMENT
Did you know that the average fruit or vegetable at the supermarket has traveled 750 to
1000+ miles to wind up in your cart? Not only is your food not “fresh” but the environmental impact of growing and shipping a product that far is, huge.
GROW YOUR OWN-SAVE TIME
A trip to the garden verses a trip in your car to the grocery store. You do the math.
A well designed vegetable garden does not require much time. Spend the time in the garden not in the car.
GROW YOUR OWN- FRESH VEGETABLE, REALLY!!!
Taste the difference between grocery store “fresh” and FRESH from the garden.
GROW YOUR OWN- HELP YOUR NEIGHBOR
For every $1.00 you spend at a local family owned business .45 cents is re-invested locally. Compare that to the .15 cents the corporate chain spends in your community.
GROW YOUR OWN-HELP THE CHILDREN
Teaching children about gardening is good for their body, soul and mind!! More than ever before
children need the exercise, they need to reconnect with nature and know where their food comes from and how it is grown.
GROW YOUR OWN- SAVE YOUR MONEY
Ever paid $2.50 for a Tomato- enough said.
GROW YOUR OWN- SAVE YOUR SELF
Did you know that gardening can burn up to 460 calories an hour??
Not to mention the peace you feel after connecting with the earth.
And the nutrients from a home grown product do not compare to one that has just traveled 750 miles.
GROW YOUR OWN- EASE YOUR MIND
Tomatoes with salmonella, spinach with E.Coli, Carrots with botulism, green onions with hepatitis A,
these are just some of what we’ve seen on the news. People are beginning to question the safety of
the veggies they buy of the shelf. Growing your own, allows you to know where your food has been and that it is safe.
Frost Damage?
What to do next.
Simple Steps:
* Resist the urge to prune damaged trees, shrubs
and vines. Once spring growth appears, cut frost-damaged stems.
*Annuals- remove and replant for fresh garden color
*Perennials-wait for new growth to appear before removing damaged leaves and stems.
If frost is predicted:
Outdoor vegetation may be covered with newspaper sheets, Burlap, etc. Avoid plastic as it transfers cold. (whatever
touches the surface of plastic will freeze)
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This Specially Selected
Group of Blooming Annuals have been
Specifically Acclimateed to Well Through a Light Frost. A Hard Frost
(mid 20's) May Cause Damage. Protect as Necessary.
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Cold Tolerant 4 1/2"- 2007
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Bellis-perennial:
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Osteospermum:
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Habanera w/ red eye
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Kenai Orange Dream
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Chrysanthemum:
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Petunia:
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Snowland
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Whispers Mini Burgundy
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Dianthus:
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Phlox:
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Super Parfait Raspberry
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21st Century Mix
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Kale:
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Salvia:
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Nagoya
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Black & Blue
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Linaria:
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Snapdragon:
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Enchantment
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Amalia Yellow
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Mimulus:
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Stocks:
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Magic mix
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Vintage Antique Mix
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Nemesia:
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Viola:
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Poetry Lavender Pink
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Sorbet Icey Blue
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The Following Plants Are Rabbit Resistant:
Acanthus
Aconitum
Alchemilla
Anemone
Aquilegia
Aster
Astilbe
Brunnera
Clematis
Convallaria
Gorydalis
Crocosmia
Dahlia
Delphinium
Digitalis
Doronicum
Epimedium
Eupatorium |
Euphorbia
Geranium
Helenium
Helianthus
Helleborus
Hemerocallis
Hosta
Houttuynia
Iris
Lamium
Lavatera
Liriope
Lupinus
Lysimachia
Malva
Miscanthus
Narcissus
Nepeta |
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Deer Resistant Plants
No plants are totally safe against deer
browsing. Plants that have textures or smells that are not as palable will discourage the deer from foraging on
their leaves. The following list will help you to select items based on Good (rarely eaten) Medium (occassionally
eaten) and Poor (often eaten) categories.
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Good Resistance:
Annuals
Ageratum
Antirrhinum (Snapdragon)
Canna
Catharanthus (Flowering Vinca)
Cleome
Helichrysum (Strawflower/
Licorice Vine)
Heliotrope
Hypoestes (Polka Dot)
Ipomoea (Morning Glory)
Lantana
Lobularia (Sweet Alyssum)
Nicotiana
Ocimum (Basil)
Ornamental Grasses/Phormium
Petroselinum (Parsley)
Rosmarinus (Rosemary)
Salvia farinacea (Blue Salvia)
Senecio (Dusty Miller)
Tagetes (Marigold)
Verbena
Perennials/ Hardy Bulbs
Acanthus (Bear’s Breeches)
Achillea (Yarrow)
Aconitum (Monkshood)
Acorus (Sweetflag)
Aegopodium (Bishop’s Weed)
Agastache (Hyssop)
Ajuga
Alchemilla (Lady’s Mantle)
Allium (Onions, Chives, etc.)
Anemone
Aquilegia (Columbine)
Artemisia
Aruncus (Goat’s Beard)
Asarum (Ginger)
Asclepias (Butterfly Weed)
Astilbe
Athyrium (Painted Fern)
Baptisia (False Indigo)
Bergenia
Brunnera
Camassia (Quamash)
Centaurea (Bachelor’s Button)
Cerastium (Snow in Summer)
Ceratostigma (Plumbago)
Chelone (Turtlehead)
Cimicifuga (Bugbane)
Clematis
Colchicum (Autumn Crocus)
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley)
Coreopsis
Corydalis
Crocosmia
Cyrtomium (Holly Fern)
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
Digitalis (Foxglove)
Echinacea
Epimedium
Eranthis (Winter Aconite)
Heuchera
Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed)
Euphorbia
Filipendula (Queen of the Prairie)
Fritillaria (Crown Imperial)
Galanthus (Snowdrop)
Geum
Gypsophila (Baby’s Breath)
Helenium (Helen’s Flower)
Helleborus (Lenten Rose)
Hyacinth
Iberis (Candytuft)
Lamium/Lamiastrum
Lavandula (Lavender)
Leucanthemum (Shasta Daisy)
Liatris (Gayfeather)
Ligularia
Linum (Flax)
Lupinus
Lychnis (Rose Campion)
Lythrum (Loosestrife)
Matteuccia (Ostrich Fern)
Mentha (Mint)
Monarda (BeeBalm)
Muscari (Grape Hyacinth)
Myosotis (Forget Me Not)
Narcissus (Daffodil)
Nepeta (Catmint)
Oenothera (Evening
Primrose)
Origanum (Oregano)
Ornamental Grasses
Osmunda (Cinnamon Fern)
Pachysandra
Paeonia (Peony)
Papaver (Poppy)
Perovskia (Russian Sage) |
Perennials
(cont)
Platycodon (Balloon
Flower)
Polemonium (Jacob’s
Ladder)
Pulmonaria (Lungwort)
Pyrethrum (Painted Daisy)
Salvia (Meadow Sage)
Santolina (Lavender-
Cotton)
Scabiosa (Pin-cushion)
Scilla (Squill)
Solidago (Goldenrod)
Stachys (Lamb’s Ear)
Tanacetum (Tansy)
Thymus (Thyme)
Tiarella (Foamflower)
Verbascum (Mullein)
Veronica (Speedwell)
Vinca (Myrtle)
Trees & Shrubs
Aronia (Chokeberry)
Berberis (Barberry)
Betula (Birch)
Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
Buxus (Boxwood)
Callicarpa (Beautyberry)
Calluna (Heather)
Caryopteris (Blue Mist)
Chamaecyparis (Cypress)
Clethra
Cornus (Dogwood)
Cratageus (Hawthorn)
Daphne
Deutzia
Erica (Heath)
Fagus (Beech)
Forsythia
Ginkgo
Gleditsia (Honey Locust)
Ilex glabra (Ink berry)
Juniper
Kalmia (Mt. Laurel)
Kolkwitzia (Beautybush)
Leucothoe
Lonicera (Honeysuckle)
Magnolia (Saucer, Star)
Microbiota (Siberian
Cypress)
Myrica (Bayberry)
Picea (Spruce)
Pieris
Pinus (Pine, not White)
Spiraea
Syringa (Lilac)
Viburnum
Wisteria
Yucca
Medium Resistance:
Annuals
Alocasia (Elephant’s Ear)
Anethum (Dill)
Begonia
Caladium
Celosia
Cosmos
Medium
Resistance:
Caladium
Cyclamen
Dahlia
Dianthus
Gazania
Gerbera
Gladiolus
Helianthus (Sunflower)
Lobelia
Osteospermum
Pansy
Perilla
Pelargonium (Geranium)
Petunia
Scaevola
Tropaeolum (Nasturtium)
Viola
Zinnia
Perennials
Armeria (Sea Thrift)
Aster
Bellis (English Daisy)
Campanula
Chrysanthemum
Clematis |
Perennials (cont)
Delphinium
Dianthus
Erigeron (Fleabane)
Eryngium (Sea Holly)
Gaillardia (Blanket Flower)
Galium (Sweet Woodruff)
Gaura
Geranium (‘Biokova’ only)
Hedera (Ivy)
Hibiscus
Hypericum (St. John’s Wort)
Iris
Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker)
Lilium
Lobelia (Cardinal Flower)
Lychnis (Maltese Cross)
Lysimachia
Penstemon
Phlox (any)
Physostegia (Obedient Plant)
Primula (Primrose)
Saponaria (Soapwort)
Sedum
Sempervivum (Hens &
Chicks)
Sidalcea (Checkermallow)
Solidago (Goldenrod)
Stokesia (Stoke’s Aster)
Thalictrum (Meadow Rue)
Tiarella (Foam Flower)
Tradescantia (Spiderwort)
Tricyrtis (Toad Lily)
Trollius (Globe Flower)
Trees & Shrubs
Abies (Concolor Fir)
Acer (Maple)
Aesculus (Buckeye)
Amelanchier (Serviceberry)
Campsis (Trumpet Vine)
Cotinus (Smokebush)
Cotoneaster
Hamamelis (Witchhazel)
Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon)
Hydrangea
Hypericum (St. John’s Wort)
Ilex (Blue, Winterberry, etc.)
Kerria
Ligustrum (Privet)
Magnolia (most)
Metasequoia (Dawn
Redwood)
Philadelphus (Mock Orange)
Potentilla
Prunus (Jap. Flowering)
Pyrus (Flowering Pear)
Quercus (Oak)
Rhododendron
Rosa (Rugosa or Landscape
types, not Hybrids)
Salix (Willows)
Tilia (Linden)
Tsuga (Hemlock)
Weigela
Poor Resistance:
Annuals
Impatiens
Tulips
Perennials
Alcea (Hollyhock)
Geranium (most)
Fragaria (Strawberry)
Hemerocallis (Daylily)
Hosta
Rudbeckia (Black-eyed
Susan)
Trees & Shrubs
Abies (most Fir, except
Concolor)
Azalea
Cercis (Redbud)
Euonymus
Malus (Apples)
Prunus (Plums, Cherries)
Rosa (Hybrids)
Taxus (Yew)
Thuja (Arborvitae) |
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Deer Deterrent Tips:
- Deer are habitable animals, they tend to return to best
feeding areas and bring friends!
- Resistant plant selection, coupled with barriers (such as
fences) should be your first line of defense.
- Motion detection sprinklers and/or frightening techniques
can be effective.
- Spray repellants such as: Liquid Fence, have been shown
to work well in our area. Granular applications of: Deer Scram plus Shake Away can stretch out the times between
re-application.
- Surrounding low resistance plants with good resistant plants
or planting not-so-resitant items near the house will minimize damage.
- Heavy deer damage is evident in winters of freezing cold
and accumulating snows that last. Severe grazing also occurs in spring, when new growth appears and deer are starving.
In this case – no plants are immune.
- As more homes are built in your area, more people taking
over the wilderness areas. Deer have less food choices and are more likely to feed on less desirable plants to
survive.
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CONTAINER GARDENING 101
Container Gardening has become one of the most popular forms
of gardening. Not only is it less work than bed gardening, but it’s great for those who live in apartments or have
second homes. Nothing dresses up a deck or area like a splash of flower power.
Whether you are looking for something a little different or the classics we offer hundreds of varieties of new,
unique and hard to find annuals.
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Pick plants that are compatible, pay attention to their light
and moisture requirements, height and growing habits and colors. Make sure to use a good quality potting soil like
Baccto and use a container with good drainage. Most of all use your imagination and have fun!!!
Here are some suggestions:
We recommend using 14" containers for the following combinations. |
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Not sure what’s bugging you? Bring a sample of the
damaged plant along with you to our store so we can help you correctly diagnose the problem and offer a solution.
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| SYMPTOM |
PLANT & INSECT |
CURE |
Type of sap dripping from leaves, presence
of insect.
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Aphids- Tiny white/lime green suckling insect found primarily
on flowering house plants.
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Safer Insecticidal Soap , Malathion,
Ortho Bug Gone.
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Slugs & Snails- Like cool moist areas, particularly shade
plants like Hostas. Feed at night.
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Bug Geta, Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait.
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Leaves are chewed away; hard-shelled
beetles can be found on the plant and
burrowed into flowers. The grubs will feed on roots of grasses and vegetables.
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Japanese Beetles - Adults are known to
damage more than 200 types of plants as well as your lawn.
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Sprinkle with Bonide Rose & Flower Dust
or Eight Products.The beetle grubs can
also be killed by spreading a beneficial
microorganism, Milky Spore.
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Brownish/green winged insects on plants
often in pairs. Can cause holes on foliage.
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Rose Chafer- Unlike its’ name suggest, these insects infest all
types of plants. Usually most noticeable in June. Infestation is short lived usually about three weeks.
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Some people choose to let Rose Chafers
go away on their own but if damage to
the plant is present, Orthos’ Rose Pride
Orthonex also works well.
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The Good Dirt…
The Quality of the soil in your container gardens and flower or
vegetable beds makes one of the biggest differences between dud garden and dream garden…
Containers should be replanted with new potting soil every spring.
The Soils main function is to supply nutrients, including water to your plant. Soil that is reused has been leeched
of these nutrients and water
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retention qualities. Beware of the ingredients
of your Potting Soil. A quality potting soil will actually be a soil-less mix. Cheap potting soil can contain up
to 70% topsoil and sand, which have virtually no
nutrients and plenty of weed seeds. We recommend soil-less brands such as BACCTO or FAFARD. It is also a good idea
to mix in a time release fertilizer such as OSMOCOTE when preparing your container. This fertilizer will provide
your plants with the nutrients they need to blossom and grow through out the season.
Unfortunately, Mother Nature rarely provides the nutrients needed to maintain a healthy garden year after year.
For sandy soils, try mixing in Sphagnum Peat Moss for added water retention. Cow Manure and Compost can help add
nutrients to your beds. We also have a product that contains a mixture of peat moss, cow manure and topsoil, called
Fafard Complete Planting Mix. This product can be added to improve the quality of your beds with out the labor
of mixing soils. Mixing in a organic fertilizer like Espoma will improve the quality of your soil while fertilizing
throughout the season. Espoma can be added as a dressing to established perennial beds as well. This can be done
at anytime including early spring.
Unlike chemical fertilizer, organic fertilizer contains micronutrients and trace elements and will not leech out
in soil under 50 degrees.
Stop by for more information or advice on getting the best out of your garden by using… Good Dirt.
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